Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
